Delhi, India

Discover the inner peace of a city rich with culture, architecture and human diversity, deep with history and totally addictive to epicureans.

Both Old and New Delhi exert a beguiling charm on visitors. Lose yourself unwinding the secrets of the city's Mughal past in the labyrinthine streets of Old Delhi before emerging into the wide open spaces of imperial New Delhi, with its ordered governmental vistas and generous leafy avenues.

PLACES TO VISIT

>>Akshardham Temple

Located on Delhi's outskirts is the mammoth and elaborate Akshardham Temple, a recently built structure (inaugurated in 2005) made of pink sandstone and white marble. Part of the Hindu Swaminarayan group, this extraordinary temple reflects traditional Orissan, Gujarati, Mughal and Rajasthani architectural elements and has exquisite domes and pillars.

It contains around 20,000 carved deities. Allow at least half a day to do justice to this sprawling temple complex (weekdays are less crowded) as there's lots to see (the website has more details).


>>Connaught Place

The heart of New Delhi is the vast traffic circle of Connaught Place and the seven streets that radiate from it, which are divided into blocks. It has an architecturally uniform series of colonnaded buildings devoted to shops, banks, restaurants, hotels and offices.

Often creating confusion, the outer circle is technically called 'Connaught Circus' (divided into blocks from G to N) and the inner circle 'Connaught Place' (divided into blocks from A to F). There's also a 'Middle Circle'. In 1995 the inner and outer circles were renamed Rajiv Chowk and Indira Chowk respectively, but these names are rarely used. Touts are especially rampant in Connaught Place.


>>Coronation Durbar Site

Incurable Raj fans should head to the Coronation Durbar site, marked by a lone obelisk in a desolate field located in open country north of 'Old' Delhi. Pride of place goes to a 15m (50ft) high statue of George V that rises ghost-like above the acacia trees. It was placed here after being removed from the canopy midway along Rajpath soon after Independence.

It was on this site that, in 1877 and 1903, the durbars were enacted and, in 1911, King George V was declared Emperor of India. Close by there's a walled garden complete with a rogues' gallery of marble statues of former imperial dignitaries, languishing like disgraced schoolboys out of the public eye. Most of Delhi's residents are blissfully unaware of the existence or significance of this place.


>>Crafts Museum

Near Pragati Maidan is this delightful tree-shaded Crafts Museum with an exhibit-packed museum and craft stalls where artisans sell direct to buyers. It's part of a contrived, yet enjoyable, 'village life' complex and is certainly a soothing escape from the city madness.

Peruse the well-presented galleries which house over 20,000 exhibits from around India, including metalware, woodwork, old silver jewellery, tribal masks, paintings and terracotta figurines. There's also a huge 18th-century wooden jharokha (elaborate balcony) from Gujarat. The on-site shop sells quality crafts. Photography is only allowed with prior permission.


>>Firoz Shah Kotla

The ruins of Firozabad (the fifth city of Delhi), erected by Firoz Shah in 1354, can be found at Firoz Shah Kotla, just off Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg. In the fortress/palace is a 13m-high sandstone Ashoka Pillar inscribed with Ashoka's edicts (and a later inscription).


>>Gandhi National Museum

The National Gandhi Museum has an interesting display of paintings and photos about the man who spearheaded the country's independence movement. Indians affectionately dub Gandhi 'the Father of the Nation'.


>>Gurdwara Bangla Sahib

Topped with gold domes, the Gurdwara Bangla Sahib was constructed at the site where the eighth Sikh guru, Harkrishan Dev, spent several months in 1664. This guru dedicated most of his time to helping the destitute and sick and was revered for his healing powers; a tank on the gurdwara's premises contains water said to have curative properties. Soul-warming kirtan (devotional songs) often drift from the temple.


>>Humayun's Tomb

The must-see Humayun's Tomb is a brilliant example of early Mughal architecture. It was built in the mid-16th century by Haji Begum, the Persian-born senior wife of the second Mughal emperor Humayun.

Elements in its design - a squat building with high arched entrances that let in light, topped by a bulbous dome and surrounded by formal gardens - were to be refined over the years to eventually create the magnificence of Agra's Taj Mahal. Haji Begum is buried in the red-and-white sandstone and black-and-yellow marble tomb. The octagonal tomb of Isa Khan is through a gate to the left of the entrance and is a fine example of Lodi architecture.


>>Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum

The former residence of Indira Gandhi, now the Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum, displays some of her personal belongings, including the blood-stained sari she was wearing when she was assassinated in 1984. There are also newspaper clippings, letters and photos.

On the way out, you'll pass an enclosed crystal pathway which is where Gandhi walked moments before being fatally shot by two of her Sikh bodyguards - the clear glass portion marks the spot she fell.


>>Jama Masjid

The stunning Jama Masjid mosque is the largest in India and the final architectural magnum opus of Shah Jahan. Construction of the mosque began in 1644, but it wasn't completed until 1658. It has three gateways, four angle towers and two minarets standing 40m high, and is constructed of alternating vertical strips of red sandstone and white marble. The main entry point is Gate No 3. The mosque's courtyard can hold a mind-blowing 25,000 people.

For Rs 20 it's possible to climb the southern minaret (women must be accompanied by a male; sometimes unaccompanied men may also not be permitted), where the views are superb. From the top of the minaret, you can see one of the features that architect Edwin Lutyens incorporated into his design of New Delhi - the Jama Masjid, Connaught Place and Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House) are in a direct line.

Visitors should remove their shoes at the top of the stairs (pay the shoeminder Rs 5 upon collection). Beware of fake guides insisting there's a charge to enter the mosque (admission is free). If you wish to hire a guide, ask to see accreditation.


>>Jantar Mantar

Comprised of curious terracotta-red structures, Jantar Mantar was one of Maharaja Jai Singh II's observatories, constructed in 1725. It's dominated by a huge sundial and houses other instruments plotting the course of heavenly bodies.


>>Lakshmi Narayan Temple

West of Connaught Place, with soaring domes, the Orissan-style Lakshmi Narayan Temple was erected in 1938 by the wealthy industrialist BD Birla. The main temple is dedicated to Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, and her consort, Narayan the Preserver.


>>Lodi Garden

The well-tended Lodi Garden is a popular place for a morning/evening stroll or jog. Within the grounds are the crumbling tombs of the Sayyid and Lodi rulers, including the 15th-century Bara Gumbad. Avoid visiting on Sundays, when crowds can mar the garden's serenity.


>>National Gallery of Modern Art

The National Gallery of Modern Art has rotating exhibitions of more than 300 paintings (by Indian artists) which include tempera, oils, watercolours and lithographs. Photography isn't allowed.


>>National Museum

Thousands of historic artefacts are on display in the spacious galleries of the excellent National Museum. Exhibits include rare relics from the Harappan Civilisation, Central Asian antiquities (including silk paintings from the 1st century AD), Indian textiles, tribal masks, sculptures, musical instruments, old coins (including Portuguese, Dutch and Danish), miniature paintings and weapons (including a battle-axe from AD 1739).

Give yourself at least a few hours - preferably a half-day - to explore this museum, one of India's finest.

>>National Philatelic Museum

Located in the Dak Bhavan post office, the National Philatelic Museum exhibits over 1700 post-Independence stamps. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited.


>>National Rail Museum

Trainspotters will relish this National Rail Museum, which has intriguing indoor and outdoor sections. On site are almost 30 locomotives and old carriages as well as assorted railway memorabilia. Exhibits include an 1855 steam engine, still in working order, and various oddities including the skull of an elephant that charged a train in 1894, and lost. On Sundays (; 14:30 to 16:30 ) you can ride the coal-run monorail.


>>National Zoological Gardens

Popular with families and courting couples, the well-kept National Zoological Gardens is a welcoming green retreat from the concrete jungle. There's a bevy of beasts such as big jungle cats (including rare white tigers), Himalayan black bears, rhinos, hippos, wolves, elephants, giraffes and some truly spectacular birds - don't miss the crowned crane and great Indian hornbill. Arrive early for maximum tranquillity.


>>Nehru Memorial Museum & Planetarium

Teen Murti Bhavan, the former residence of Jawaharlal Nehru (India's first prime minister), just off Teen Murti Rd, has been converted into the Nehru Memorial Museum and Planetarium. Its photographs and newspaper clippings offer perceptive insights into the Independence movement. In the grounds is a planetarium.


>>Nizam-ud-din's Shrine

Across from Humayun's Tomb is Nizam-ud-din's Shrine, resting place of the Muslim Sufi saint Nizam-ud-din Chishti, who died in 1325, aged 92. The construction of Nizam-ud-din's tank ignited a dispute between the saint and the constructor of Tughlaqabad.

Other tombs include the later grave of Jahanara, the daughter of Shah Jahan, who stayed with her father during his imprisonment by Aurangzeb in Agra's Red Fort. Amir Khusru, a renowned Urdu poet, also has his tomb here, as does Atgah Khan, a friend of Humayun and his son Akbar. Atgah Khan was murdered by Adham Khan in Agra. In turn Akbar had Adham Khan terminated and his grave is near the Qutb Minar.


>>Purana Qila

With massive walls and three gateways, Purana Qila was the site of ancient Indraprastha. The Afghan ruler, Sher Shah, who briefly interrupted Mughal sovereignty by defeating Humayun, completed the fort during his reign (1538-45), before Humayun regained control of India.

Entering from the south gate you'll see the small, octagonal, red-sandstone tower, the Sher Mandal, later used by Humayun as a library. It was while descending the stairs of this tower in 1556 that he slipped and sustained injuries from which he later died. Just beyond it is the Qila-i-Kuhran Mosque, or Mosque of Sher Shah. There's a small archaeological museum (admission free) just inside the main gate.


>>Qutb Minar

The superb buildings in this complex date from the onset of Islamic rule in India. The Qutb Minar itself is a soaring 73m/240ft-high tower of victory that was started in 1193, immediately after the defeat of the last Hindu kingdom in Delhi. At its base is Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid (Might of Islam Mosque), India's first.

The tower has five distinct storeys, each marked by a projecting balcony, and it tapers, like something out of a fairy tale, from a 15m (50ft) diameter at the base to just 2.5m (8ft) at the top. The first three storeys are made of red sandstone, the fourth and fifth storeys of marble and sandstone. The stairs inside the tower coil so steeply that they're enough to make the hardiest climber dizzy and claustrophobic, and it was no surprise when a stampede during a school trip in 1979 resulted in a number of deaths. The inside of the tower has since been closed to visitors.

An inscription over the mosque's eastern gate provocatively informs that it was built with material obtained from demolishing 27 idolatrous (read Hindu) temples. A 7m (23ft) high iron pillar stands in the courtyard of the mosque and it's said that if you can encircle it with your hands while standing with your back to it, your wish will be unfulfilled; however, the pillar is now protected by a fence.


>>Red Fort (Lal qila)

The massive Red Fort (Lal qila) stands rather forlornly, a sandstone carcass of its former self. When Emperor Shah Jahan paraded out of the fort atop an elephant into the streets of Old Delhi, though, he and the fort that he built were a grandiose display of pomp and power.

The walls of the fort extend for 2km and vary in height from 18m on the river side to 33m on the city side. Shah Jahan began construction of the massive fort in 1638 and it was completed in 1648. Shah Jahan never completely moved his capital from Agra to his new city of Shahjahanabad in Delhi because he was deposed and imprisoned in Agra Fort by his sly son Aurangzeb.

The Red Fort dates from the very peak of Mughal power. The Mughal reign from Delhi was a short one, however; Aurangzeb was the first and last great Mughal emperor to rule from here. The 10m-deep moat, which has been bone-dry since 1857, was originally crossed on creaky wooden drawbridges, but these were replaced with stone bridges in 1811.

Tickets to the fort are available from the ticket kiosk opposite Lahore Gate (the main gate). Since Independence, many landmark political speeches have taken place at the fort and every year on Independence Day (15 August) it hosts the prime minister's address to the nation.

Each evening (except Monday) a one-hour sound-and-light show re-creates events of India's history, particularly those associated with the Red Fort.


>>Safdarjang's Tomb

The mid-18th-century Safdarjang's Tomb was built by the Nawab of Avadh for his father, Safdarjang, and is one of the last examples of Mughal architecture before the final remnants of the great empire collapsed.


>>Shalimar Bagh

The Shalimar Garden, which lies on the fringes of the city about 10km (33ft) north-west of 'Old' Delhi, is one of the most important Moghul gardens in the city. This was once the first-night staging post for the Moghuls on their way to Kashmir and Lahore. Aurangzeb was crowned emperor here in 1658. The beautiful central pavilion, the Shish Mahal, was built by Shah Jahan. Although it is in a fairly advanced state of decay, some of the original painted flower decoration has survived and the place has lots of atmosphere.


>>Shankar's International Dolls Museum

Boasting one of the planet's biggest collections of dolls, Shankar's International Dolls Museum has 6500 dolls from around 85 countries. Apart from the noteworthy international collection, which includes dolls from Europe, Asia, Africa and the Middle East, there are brightly costumed Indian dolls, including brides.


>>Spice Market

Khari Baoli, the street that runs from the Fatehpuri Mosque to the western edge of the old city, is Delhi's bustling wholesale spice market. It's well worth a wander simply to take in the sights and smells because things have changed little here for centuries. Huge sacks of herbs and spices are still brought to the wholesalers on long, narrow barrows pushed by labourers, and there are eye-catching displays of everything from lentils and rice to giant jars of chutneys, pickles, nuts and tea.


>>Sulabh International Museum of Toilets

Get up-close-and-personal with toilets at the quirky Sulabh International Museum of Toilets, southwest of the centre. It houses a mind-boggling collection of toilet-related paraphernalia dating from 2500 BC to modern times. A guided tour (free) brings the loos to life.


>>Supreme Court of India Museum

Showcasing India's judicial history, this small Supreme Court of India Museum, which is accessed from Mathura Rd (opposite Appu Ghar Gate), contains two interesting galleries. One gallery has a focus on the evolution of India's justice system, which harks back to the Indus Valley civilization (3500 BC).

The second gallery is dedicated to the Federal and Supreme Courts with exhibits including an early 20th-century judge's chair, portraits of Raj-era judges and original manuscripts of landmark cases including the assassination case of Mahatma Gandhi. Photography is prohibited.


>>Tibet House

The Tibet House museum contains ceremonial items brought out of Tibet when the Dalai Lama fled following Chinese occupation. Pieces include sacred manuscripts, sculptures and old thangkas (Tibetan paintings on cloth). Photography prohibited. On the first floor is a bookshop that specialises in Buddhist titles and sells Buddhist chanting CDs, prayer flags and khatags (sacred Tibetan scarves).